behold: Rudolf's corner

In the past months I have been working on finally translating my dutch BeOS driver howto document myself, as I would gladly see it available for anyone to read. Which has been a long standing problem as some of you might know..

While I am working on this, I am also adding some extra information here and there since it seems my knowledge has grown a bit more since I wrote the original, and also Haiku has evolved a lot!

Thinking about it, I remember I wrote this in 2003, and I did a lot of nVidia graphics driver work after that, using multiple cards in one system, and working on the 3D add-on. Some of the things I learned in that time now find their way into this document: the translated version that is.

I'm halfway done now, so I thought I'd post a PDF preview on my site. You can find it in each driver's 'downloads' section at the bottom of the page: alongside the original Dutch version and the old partial translation on the Haiku site as was done by some other people.

When the translation is finished, I'll also make the doc version available, and I hope it will be converted to the same nice format as you can currently see on the Haiku site for the old translation attempt..

OK, that's it for now.

Greetings!

Hi there,

The past weeks I've been gathering the scattered information that belongs to the site but wasn't there: it's posted now. This means that the 2D and 3D news pages are upto-date, the AGP busmanager stuff is online. and the complete version history is back.

Information was retrieved mostly from BeBits and this blog: now all interesting items here are also in the original web-site. This blog is now redundant so to speak. Well, apart from the feedback option that exists here that is.

I guess that when I come to a point where I can post interesting info again, I will do so on the original site, with a link here. Maybe (indeed) I should start posting on the Haiku site blog later on as well/instead of using this blogger blog at least.

I still have to update the Neomagic and Matrox pages, as well as BeTVOut (to at least point back to valid pages). Also I think I'll compile the latest driver versions for BeOS and post them on the site for completeness sake (some users are still working with the BeOS in favor of Haiku..)

Apart from the website work I did not work on any drivers in the meantime. I should have a go at the hardcursor stuff, which btw really is broken on Haiku still: It prefers to work with the new full-color cursor, falls back to the old hardware cursor if the new one doesn't exist, and finally falls back to software mode if even that does not exist. Though the intermediate option is tried when prudent, it always fails..

Anyhow, when I have more news, I'll let you know!

Bye!

Well, finally found some time and the source of my old website back. It's online again, the links here are updated to point there (www.rudolfs-place.nl).

I'll update that old site a bit so all (or most) links will work correctly again. I plan to start posting a bit every now and then again, though time is limited due to busy real life.

Driver stuff:

In the meantime I've done a few smaller things:

• Updated the nvidia driver for basic dualhead support with the native Haiku screenprefs app;
  
• Added a new setting to nv.settings to disable use of EDID (item check_edid) so bad-behaving monitors can be used on higher resolutions as well;
  
• Worked on the VIA driver. It now has screen and overlay support for K8M800. Also it supports more mainboard memory types now (DDR166 and DDR200). It's back in the Haiku image as well now;
  
• Fixed overlay generally in app_server for 8, 15 and 16 bit color depths.

Other work done:

While working again on the drivers I encountered, in my head, strange behaviour from the Haiku Backgrounds app. The color of the color selection sliders changes while moving the sliders around. This was not the case on BeOS. Since I was focussed on driver issues and I always use this app from that perspective I concluded that there might be something wrong with the driver(s) causing this behaviour.

In the end it turned out that it's actually new 'intended behaviour' so I can leave it alone. But not before I encountered a small error in the underlying class BColorControl with doublebuffering. This (along with other things) was fixed in the meantime by John Scipione so that class is now fully working OK from driver testing perspective.

Next up I am busy with trying to locate the exact problem Haiku's app_server currently has with hardcursors: while the drivers I wrote support this function, it still doesn't work on Haiku. It turns out Haiku has a new driverhook for a new bitmap style cursor that more modern graphics card support (like nVidia).

I need to run a manually compiled and installed app_server on my system, but I can't get this going (even though Axel gave me a few helpfull pointers). Maybe Haiku behaves different than it was meant to be? Don't really know yet.

I do know that indeed app_server has a fault for the cursors as I _can_ get it going if I fake a new style cursor by exporting and accepting the new hook. If that hook isn't there or fails app_server incorrectly assumes the cursor does not work and falls back to software cursor.

Anyhow.. still fiddling with this one..


VESA 3

In the meantime I've been reading up on the VBE 3 (VESA BIOS extensions) specs to see if it would be possible to add widescreen support to our VESA graphics fallback driver. Officially this can't be done I fear. This I did not expect, I'm disappointed in that. I had hoped you could set a custom 'modeline' but that cannot be done: only custom timing (refresh rates) for existing resolutions can be set.

Anyhow I'll do some tests to see if it's possible after all: there's a function concerning panels native resolutions: that would be the way to go with VESA, if possible.

No tests done yet though.


So, first I am still busy with the cursor. Also I am going to do some tests with virtual screens which depends on availability of a hardcursor (at least on BeOS). Since Haiku's screenprefs panel makes 'illegal' use of that for dualhead support on ATI cards I fear this won't work correctly at all times yet either..

That's it for now.

Greetings!

Rudolf.

Hi there,

It's been a while since I posted here. In the meantime changed internet provider once again... hopefully this time I won't encounter account trouble ;-)

Anyhow, just wanted to let you know I am restarting Haiku development, though on a less intensitive speed. Looks like my access to Haiku's repository is still in working order, so I am going to do a few things on the nVidia driver again.

Let's just see what I can manage for Haiku these days..

Bye!

Rudolf.

PS Oh! Season's greetings to all of you!

Hi there,

Well, changing providers turns out to be 'tricky' to say the least. It seems KPN in holland is capable of messing up a lot of different people and accounts... Unbelievable!

Anyhow, this is a test post. Sort of a 'keep alive' message. Talk to you later ;-)

Rudolf.

Oh yes, I just updated the links to my site stuff, and here is the mirror site for the nVidia Haiku Driver:
http://be-hold.linknaarlinux.tk/BeOS/NVdriver/index.html

Bye!

Hi there,

Currently I am working on moving to another internet provider. This means my Email adresses and homepage will go into oblivion. The locations that is, not the content. :-)

Anyhow, please take note of the mirror site's adress and of this weblog since these two will remain operational.

I'll post more news once it becomes available.

Greetings!

Rudolf.

NOTE: If you execute the modification suggested below and you blow-up your set, you are on your own! I can give no warranties of any kind whatsoever...


Hi,

Ever since I can remember I have a Logitech Z680 5.1 audio set which I use to watch movies and listen to my music. It was the top-of-the-line audioset for PC's from Logitech way back, there's a follow-up top-set now: The Z5500.

This (Z680) is an audioset with integrated Dolby digital and DTS decoder and it has a remote as well. You can input audio using 3.5Inch jacks, but also using coaxial or optical cable. You can choose from 3 input signals using the remote so I have the set connected to my stand-alone DVD player, but also to an old stand-alone audio set with CD player.

On the Z680 (one of) the downside(s) is that you cannot set the sub-woofers volume between 0 and 100% in small steps. Instead you can set 0%, and about 60-100%. On the Z5500 this limitation was removed BTW.

A lot of Z680 users including myself found that the 60% setting of the subwoofer is much too loud for most (living) rooms: Neighbours will complain about pictures falling of their walls, and the sound is not optimal for the user him (or her)self either.

So, I decided to take my set apart and modify it to be actually useable. I did two modifications: for one I added a RS232C interface in the hope I could (re)program the set some way. This RS232C interface was there on the board already, it just missed a few components placed though. Unfortunately the set's firmware does not have RS232C connectivity I found out.

The second modification, which is much more low-level, worked like a charm for me. I'll decribe that modification below.


Z680 Modification for a lower bass setting range.

The control POD of the Z680 has all digital inputs and the decoders. After all signal processing is done, the audio channels are converted to analog signals. These analog signals are then transferred to the bass speaker housing via the 15-pins thick black signal cable. In the bass speaker housing sits the analog amplifier that cranks up the signals so you can hear them from the speakers.

This means lowering the bass signal range can be simply done in the control pod at the exiting spot to the amplifier. I just located the signal wire for the sub-woofer speaker and took the wire loose. I then added a simple resistor network which divides the voltage to 1/3rd of the original level, and I attached the signal wire to the output of this divider. (The input of the divider is connected to where the wire was before.)

Since the voltage is now 1/3rd of the original, the current through the speaker is also at 1/3rd of the original which means output power is 1/3 * 1/3 = 1/9th of the original for a specific volume setting.

Now I can set the volume perfectly for my taste!


Photo's and a more detailed description.

Before you start make sure you have the following:
- a screwdriver
- a soldering iron
- soldering tin
- two resistors: one of 1k-Ohm and one of 2k-ohm or there about. 1/8th Watt versions will do nicely.

First, remove mains power and take the Z680 control POD loose from the set and any extra wires. Now remove the four black screws at the backside: make sure you removed them completely (take them out).
After you did this, you can gently pull of the front panel. Please note that a wire sits in between the front panel and the mainboard which will remain in the back part of the housing: so be gently indeed!















Once you did that you'll be in the situation of Picture number 2 below.



Picture 2:
mainboard removed from back part of the housing. Again you can see the light-grey ribbon cable that belongs to my RS232C mod.




You'll not have that in your situation.














Below there's a closeup picture (3) of the situation in picture 2. Please note that the area of interest is where the black cable is soldered too. Please note the white characters printed on the board denoting (among others) the analog channels that are outputted on the respective wires:

+8 - +8V 'logic' power supply
G - 'logic' supply ground (return)
SB - ??
G - signal ground
RR - Rear Right speaker channel
RL - Read Left speaker channel
C - Center speaker channel
S - Subwoofer speaker channel - this signal we are going to modify
FR - Front Right speaker channel
FL - Front Left speaker channel
G - Signal ground
G - Signal ground
-18 - -18V analog power supply
G - analog power supply ground (return)
+18 - +18V analog power supply



Picture 3.
The area of interest, specificially the 'S' wire and the two G wires next to each other next to -18V.










Now flip the board so the other side faces up. Now Heat up your soldering iron and remove the brown wire that's soldered to the 'S' connection. Solder the 2K resistor (or 2 1k resistors in series as I did) to the S connection of the board leaving the other end free in the air.

Solder the 1k resistor with one side to the 'G' connection(s) next to the -18 signal as these G connections are closest by. Make ABSOLUTELY SURE you don't connect the -18 with the G next to it by accident! You'll probably blow-up the power supply in your set if you'd turn it on in such a case...

The other end of the 1K resistor needs to be soldered to the free end of the 2K resistor. Also connect the loose brown wire to this point. If you do it as neat as in picture 4 you can leave it as it is: it will fit nicely in the housing this way without making shortcuts.




Picture 4:
The board is flipped over showing the modification done to decrease the subwoofers power level.

The next picture shows the same modification from a different angle. Note BTW that I removed some of the white transparant 'glue' to be able to solder decently..

Picture 5:
Same spot viewed from a different angle.








OK, that's it!

Now put the control POD back together gently, keeping an eye on the modification and where you put the black cable. Re-attach the grey ribbon cable with the red wire at the same spot is was before. make sure all pins are indeed in the connector: no pins should be visible next to the connector's sides!

Gently put the top side on the backside: it should fit perfecly. If it does not, you probably made a mistake somewhere and you should just do it once more.
Put the four black screws in the backside and screw everything back together.


All set? Reconnect mains power and try your set. If it doesn't work remove mains power quickly and trace back all your steps to see if you made any mistakes, maybe it can be fixed.

If all is right it should work without a problem.


Variations:

You could also use other resistor values for more or less attenuation to fit your needs. I suggest to keep the values in the range from 1k to 10k Ohm and not much higher since the impedances of the circuitry around it are 'low' as well. It's said in the electronics that you get the best power-transfer if the impedances match..

Good luck!


Rudolf.